Posts in PMFW
Kidill SS27

In a season where individuality remains one of fashion’s most frequently invoked ideals, KIDILL’s continued commitment to the unruly spirit of punk feels particularly relevant.

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Doublet SS27

I have always been particularly interested in fashion as a vehicle for creativity, cultural awareness, and a more considered relationship with what we consume. Doublet’s SS27 collection reminds us that innovation does not always require reinvention through excess.

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SSSTEIN SS27

What makes SSSTEIN particularly interesting is its understanding that minimalism need not feel cold or clinical.

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Hed Mayner SS27

Mayner’s approach to proportion has always challenged conventional ideas of masculine dressing. Broad shoulders, generous trousers, and displaced seams create silhouettes that occupy space without appearing rigid.

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TAAKK SS27

TAAKK SS27 is a reminder that innovation does not always require reinvention. Sometimes, it is simply a matter of learning to see the world differently. And in Paris, that felt like a rather lovely thing to be reminded of.

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Ziggy Chen SS27

Rather than offering the polished perfection we so often associate with new season dressing, Chen looks to the things that happen after a garment leaves the atelier.

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Luca Magliano SS27

This presentation felt like I was intruding on the coolest fashion dinner there ever was. At Magliano’s SS27 presentation during Paris Men’s Fashion Week, held at the legendary Maxim’s, the usual distance between fashion and real life seemed to disappear.

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Vetements SS27

I had never in my life experienced so many people in a 360° crowd, both on the ground and above me on the balconies of surrounding buildings. It was chaotic, surreal and, honestly, a little intimidating. For a moment, I forgot I was there to see a fashion show. The spectacle outside had become an event in itself.

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ERL SS27

SS27 also marks an important turning point for the label, with ERL stepping into a new chapter as an independent brand following its departure from Dover Street Market’s incubation program. The collection feels all the more assured for it, bringing together the label’s familiar West Coast energy with a more expansive exploration of American style and personal history. 

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Ouest Paris SS27

Be careful of charismatic gay men, because they will flirt with everybody, and it works. This is how it is at every single Ouest Paris presentation I have attended thus far.

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Song for the Mute SS27

With SS27, Song for the Mute reinforces the idea that meaningful design does not always need to announce itself. Sometimes, its greatest strength lies in what it leaves unsaid and in the feelings that remain long after the clothes have passed from view.

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Solid Homme SS27

Ultimately, Solid Homme SS27 offered more than a straightforward runway presentation. The botanical setting introduced a contemplative atmosphere to the show, while the format encouraged the audience to engage with the collection on its own terms.

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Etudes SS27

At a time when fashion moves quickly from one idea to the next, the collection offered a quieter proposition: perhaps the most compelling clothes are those that continue to reveal something long after the runway lights have dimmed.

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Rescha SS27

RESCHA’s SS27 is a considered study in cultural dialogue and textile craftsmanship, marking Charlotte Chowdhury as a designer whose perspective deserves a closer look.

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Meagratia AW26

Takafumi Sekine’s vision was anchored in the idea that beauty can exist inside chaos, and that human imperfection holds its own kind of elegance. Rather than smoothing over contradiction, Meagratia leaned into it, using clothing to reflect the shifting nature of the heart and the uneasy grace of living with conflicting emotions.

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Doublet AW26

This was the kind of collection that reminds us fashion can be clever without losing heart. Doublet has long been one of those labels that rewards close looking, and AW26 continued that approach with a concept that was both intelligent and oddly moving.

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SSSTEIN AW26

This was less about headlines and more about a mood, how clothing can make ordinary life feel slightly more ceremonial. If AW26 proves anything, it’s that SSSTEIN knows how to make coats that feel indispensable, the kind of garments people will reach for year after year.

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Charles Jeffrey Loverboy AW26

When Charles Jeffrey returns he does it in a way that asks you to lean in. For AW26, Loverboy’s collection, "Thistle", was less a runway and more a full on concert (that I did not want to end). A pagan punk rite staged deep in the bowels of Dover Street Market Paris, where canvases painted by the designer wrapped the space and friends moved through the room wearing clothes that felt equal parts armor and confession.

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C.R.E.O.L.E. AW26

The brand explicitly channels Édouard Glissant’s ideas about creolization, making its work as much cultural project as fashion label, and positioning menswear as a site for hybridity and narrative.

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LGN AW26

Beyond the runway theatrics, Nouchi announced LGN OF, a positioning of OnlyFans as an extension of the brand’s creative output and direct channel to fans. For him it’s about control and intimacy. LGN OF is a space to share erotic readings, ASMR and behind the scenes content in a way that traditional social media doesn’t allow.

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