SS27 also marks an important turning point for the label, with ERL stepping into a new chapter as an independent brand following its departure from Dover Street Market’s incubation program. The collection feels all the more assured for it, bringing together the label’s familiar West Coast energy with a more expansive exploration of American style and personal history.
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Be careful of charismatic gay men, because they will flirt with everybody, and it works. This is how it is at every single Ouest Paris presentation I have attended thus far.
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RESCHA’s SS27 is a considered study in cultural dialogue and textile craftsmanship, marking Charlotte Chowdhury as a designer whose perspective deserves a closer look.
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This was the kind of collection that reminds us fashion can be clever without losing heart. Doublet has long been one of those labels that rewards close looking, and AW26 continued that approach with a concept that was both intelligent and oddly moving.
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When Charles Jeffrey returns he does it in a way that asks you to lean in. For AW26, Loverboy’s collection, "Thistle", was less a runway and more a full on concert (that I did not want to end). A pagan punk rite staged deep in the bowels of Dover Street Market Paris, where canvases painted by the designer wrapped the space and friends moved through the room wearing clothes that felt equal parts armor and confession.
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"We got T-Shirts!" I excitedly told JP when we took our seats at the SS26 TAAKK show. Always the perfect ending to my PFW season TAAKK presented an introspective and quietly radical meditation on what it means to create. Designer Takuya Morikawa presented not only garments but a philosophy, a pursuit of creation distilled to its purest essence.
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Food. We all love it. But Doublet might just love it the most. At Paris Fashion Week, Masayuki Ino transformed a lush natural garden into a runway celebration of life’s simplest, yet most profound pleasure.
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PFW gifted us many unforgettable moments this season, but one show soared above them all, literally. Colm Dillane’s KidSuper SS26 presentation, The Boy Who Jumped the Moon, wasn’t just a fashion show. It was a parable, a bedtime story come to life, stitched in fabric and imagination under the grand ceilings of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Without hesitation I’ll say it, this was my favorite show of all time.
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The sun was beating down on us long before the first model stepped onto the Kolor SS26 runway. Most of the attendees were armed with oversized sunglasses and handheld fans. Moments before the show began, much of the audience had sought shelter under the arches of the runway space, "shadow chasing" if you will. JP leaned over to me, bringing me into an observation with a playful smirk, "We're Asian, we don't do tan!"
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This was one show where the ending should have been the entire show, an electrifying cross current of energy as every model flowed onto the courtyard at once, weaving and crossing paths. For a few mesmerizing minutes, the entire collection lived and breathed together, becoming a moving topography of athleticism, utility, and subtle refinement.
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Office Daydream embraced that private yearning, offering a collection that felt like a pause in time. A fleeting breath of freedom, a wardrobe caught between reality and imagination. With more than 300 pieces, SYSTEM imagined a balance between pragmatism and dreamlike elegance, seamlessly blending sharp minimalism with fluid sportswear undertones.
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This season, Camperlab (yes, that Camperlab), under the visionary direction of Achilles Ion Gabriel, unveiled its SS26 collection, marking a compelling new chapter for the brand and a bold step away from its experimental roots in footwear to a full-fledged fashion label.
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Julie Kegels unveiled her Fall 2025 collection; a witty, subversive homage to late 20th-century corporate aesthetics. The 26-year-old Antwerp designer, known for her razor sharp reinterpretations of nostalgia, drew inspiration from Judith Price’s 1980 book, “Executive: Achieve Success Through Taste”, a flea-market find that became her muse. The result? A collection that oscillated between tech-bro irony and high-design sophistication, all while questioning the gendered tropes of power dressing.
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Rocky Star's "Blush Éclat" SS25 collection was nothing short of enchanting. It celebrated the poetry of spring with a delicate dance of soft pastels—ivory, blush pink, and a touch of midnight black. The collection seemed to embody girlhood just on the cusp of discovering that there is an edgier, playful and outstandingly curious world out there, like Alice in Wonderland grows up...a little.
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I expect nothing but a sublime works when I think of TAAKK. This brand has spoiled us all with such exquisite craftsmanship over the years that anything less imperfection will simply not be tolerated. Does that sound harsh? Maybe. But TAAKK keeps rising to the occasion and SS25 is no different.
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The beat made me and a fellow attendee breakout in a short little dance prior to the show starting. We caught the eye of another attendee across the way and she did not find it amusing. Sometimes I wonder if most of these European attendees really understand the quirky humor in Japanese fashion.
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When a woman is adopted by three gay men during Paris Men’s Fashion Week we get to do fun things like stop by Loewe, navigating through the paparazzi that are waiting for K-pop stars to arrive and enjoying bottles of Evian and champagne, refueling for the next show. I could have stayed forever but I knew I would have been late for the next show if I didn't step out into the heatwave and brave the sticky walk.
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The "Summer of Love" theme was unmistakable, evoking dreamy California vibes that transported us far from the Parisian heat. As a long-time follower of System, I've always admired their ability to create cohesive collections that seamlessly blend menswear and womenswear.
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Ujoh's luxurious AW24 collection channels 80s nomadic elegance and was a stunning display of sartorial sophistication. AW24 drew inspiration from Bruce Weber's iconic "Men & Women" photography series from the 1980s. Designer Mitsuru Nishizaki masterfully translated the essence of that bygone era into a modern, luxurious wardrobe for the contemporary urban nomad.
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