Posts in AW25
Julien Fournie AW26

What made the presentation resonate was its refusal to flatten into a single mood. According to the house’s own notes and press coverage of the show, the collection drew inspiration from the diverse personalities Fournié encountered in Paris, from the northern suburbs to the center of the city, translating those everyday observations into a wardrobe of strong silhouettes, rich surfaces, and distinct attitudes.

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Rahul Mishra AW26

There are moments at couture week when the room hushes not because of spectacle but because of quiet conviction; clothes that arrive with a history stitched into their seams. Rahul Mishra’s SS26 collection, “Alchemy,” delivered precisely that, a contemplative translation of elemental philosophy into exquisitely hand made clothes that felt less like fashion statements and more like meditations. 

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Meagratia AW26

Takafumi Sekine’s vision was anchored in the idea that beauty can exist inside chaos, and that human imperfection holds its own kind of elegance. Rather than smoothing over contradiction, Meagratia leaned into it, using clothing to reflect the shifting nature of the heart and the uneasy grace of living with conflicting emotions.

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Doublet AW26

This was the kind of collection that reminds us fashion can be clever without losing heart. Doublet has long been one of those labels that rewards close looking, and AW26 continued that approach with a concept that was both intelligent and oddly moving.

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SSSTEIN AW26

This was less about headlines and more about a mood, how clothing can make ordinary life feel slightly more ceremonial. If AW26 proves anything, it’s that SSSTEIN knows how to make coats that feel indispensable, the kind of garments people will reach for year after year.

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Charles Jeffrey Loverboy AW26

When Charles Jeffrey returns he does it in a way that asks you to lean in. For AW26, Loverboy’s collection, "Thistle", was less a runway and more a full on concert (that I did not want to end). A pagan punk rite staged deep in the bowels of Dover Street Market Paris, where canvases painted by the designer wrapped the space and friends moved through the room wearing clothes that felt equal parts armor and confession.

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C.R.E.O.L.E. AW26

The brand explicitly channels Édouard Glissant’s ideas about creolization, making its work as much cultural project as fashion label, and positioning menswear as a site for hybridity and narrative.

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LGN AW26

Beyond the runway theatrics, Nouchi announced LGN OF, a positioning of OnlyFans as an extension of the brand’s creative output and direct channel to fans. For him it’s about control and intimacy. LGN OF is a space to share erotic readings, ASMR and behind the scenes content in a way that traditional social media doesn’t allow.

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ERL AW26

Rather than classic tuxedos, the show favored velvet trousers, cotton flight suits and a few deliberately theatrical moments. Finishing touches included "Dynasty" scale jewelry and fur trims used to punctuate mood. These details pushed the collection between camp and couture. 

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LuChen AW26

Founded by Lu Chen in 2021, LÙCHEN has steadily migrated from New York to Paris, carving a niche between experimental couture and wearable thinking. The brand’s philosophy, to treat garments as 3D objects that evolve with time and touch, is visible in every seam and improvised surface. AW26 is less a seasonal exercise than an act of reclamation.

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System AW26

SYSTEM’s showing felt like another proof point in a maturing wave of Korean brands staking serious claims on the global menswear map. The creative direction credited in local coverage to the label’s Paris identity and its in house leadership leaned into a hybrid language of tailoring and underculture references, an approach that reads as both commercially savvy and thoughtfully attuned to the contemporary customer.

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VOWELS AW26

The show unfolded across four connected rooms, each evoking a city important to the house; Paris, New York, Los Angeles and Kyoto. The choreography made the collection feel lived in rather than staged. That architecture mirrored the clothes’ premise; garments conceived for movement, adaptability and a steady pace rather than theatrical single moment impact.

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Ouest Paris AW26

Presented in an open, in public shooting format rather than a traditional runway show, the collection felt intentionally unforced. That choice gave the clothes room to speak for themselves, highlighting texture, proportion, and construction while reinforcing OUEST Paris’s commitment to garments designed for real life rather than spectacle.

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Walter Van Bierendonck AW26

Visually, the collection balanced bright color, technical fabrics, and precise tailoring with utilitarian details and modular styling. The result was a wardrobe that felt dynamic and transformable, as though each piece could be reworked, reshaped, or worn in multiple ways.

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Solid Homme AW26

Solid Homme’s AW26 collection arrived at Paris Men’s Fashion Week with a confident, considered vision of contemporary menswear. Under Woo Young Mi’s direction, the house continued to explore the tension between discipline and ease, reworking tailoring through a lens of utility, movement, and modern identity.

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Valette Studio AW26

Creative director Pierre François Valette framed the collection around a tension that feels especially relevant right now, the push and pull between design as an idea and clothing as a made object. That sense of resistance ran through the show, where each look seemed to underline the value of workmanship, local production, and an in house understanding of construction. In Valette’s world, tailoring is not merely a silhouette but a language of precision and care.

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Etudes Studio AW26

Inspired by the figure of the “soundmaker,” the collection explored the work of artists who have shaped, captured, distorted and experimented with sound across different eras. Études Studio traced that influence from John Cage’s minimalist philosophy to the emergence of Intelligent Dance Music in the early 1990s, creating a collection that felt both intellectually layered and visually coherent.

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Ujoh AW25

UJOH’s AW25 collection unfolded as a nostalgic yet fiercely modern ode to the subversive spirit of Japanese high schoolers in the ‘90s. Designers Aco and Mitsuru Nishizaki, masters of deconstructed tailoring, reimagined the school uniform as a canvas for self-expression, blending rigidity with fluidity. Oversized cardigans draped over asymmetric skirts defied conformity, while leg warmers, echoing the era’s iconic loose socks, whispered of adolescent rebellion.

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HAYELI AW25

The debut of HAYELI’s AW25 collection was a philosophical inquiry draped in liquid organza and laser-cut illusions. The question posed by designers Armine Ohanyan and artist Tigran Tsitoghdzyan lingered in the air like a refrain... Are we the image we see in our reflection, or the one we invent?.

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Shiatzy Chen AW25

Miao silversmithing inspired detachable brooches (sun, butterflies, dragons) and cascading silver-chain necklaces. Studded leather bib tops and quilted jackets echoed the tribe’s talismanic aesthetic, while mandarin collars gleamed with metallic precision. Ten one-off bags, each dedicated to a Miao embroidery technique, stole the show. The Hobo and Secret-zip crossbody offered playful versatility, but the true stars were the embroidered classics, their panels stitched with "histories one by one".

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