When Charles Jeffrey returns he does it in a way that asks you to lean in. For AW26, Loverboy’s collection, "Thistle", was less a runway and more a full on concert (that I did not want to end). A pagan punk rite staged deep in the bowels of Dover Street Market Paris, where canvases painted by the designer wrapped the space and friends moved through the room wearing clothes that felt equal parts armor and confession.
Read MoreThe brand explicitly channels Édouard Glissant’s ideas about creolization, making its work as much cultural project as fashion label, and positioning menswear as a site for hybridity and narrative.
Read MoreBeyond the runway theatrics, Nouchi announced LGN OF, a positioning of OnlyFans as an extension of the brand’s creative output and direct channel to fans. For him it’s about control and intimacy. LGN OF is a space to share erotic readings, ASMR and behind the scenes content in a way that traditional social media doesn’t allow.
Read MoreRather than classic tuxedos, the show favored velvet trousers, cotton flight suits and a few deliberately theatrical moments. Finishing touches included "Dynasty" scale jewelry and fur trims used to punctuate mood. These details pushed the collection between camp and couture.
Read MoreFounded by Lu Chen in 2021, LÙCHEN has steadily migrated from New York to Paris, carving a niche between experimental couture and wearable thinking. The brand’s philosophy, to treat garments as 3D objects that evolve with time and touch, is visible in every seam and improvised surface. AW26 is less a seasonal exercise than an act of reclamation.
Read MoreSYSTEM’s showing felt like another proof point in a maturing wave of Korean brands staking serious claims on the global menswear map. The creative direction credited in local coverage to the label’s Paris identity and its in house leadership leaned into a hybrid language of tailoring and underculture references, an approach that reads as both commercially savvy and thoughtfully attuned to the contemporary customer.
Read MoreThe show unfolded across four connected rooms, each evoking a city important to the house; Paris, New York, Los Angeles and Kyoto. The choreography made the collection feel lived in rather than staged. That architecture mirrored the clothes’ premise; garments conceived for movement, adaptability and a steady pace rather than theatrical single moment impact.
Read MorePresented in an open, in public shooting format rather than a traditional runway show, the collection felt intentionally unforced. That choice gave the clothes room to speak for themselves, highlighting texture, proportion, and construction while reinforcing OUEST Paris’s commitment to garments designed for real life rather than spectacle.
Read MoreVisually, the collection balanced bright color, technical fabrics, and precise tailoring with utilitarian details and modular styling. The result was a wardrobe that felt dynamic and transformable, as though each piece could be reworked, reshaped, or worn in multiple ways.
Read MoreSolid Homme’s AW26 collection arrived at Paris Men’s Fashion Week with a confident, considered vision of contemporary menswear. Under Woo Young Mi’s direction, the house continued to explore the tension between discipline and ease, reworking tailoring through a lens of utility, movement, and modern identity.
Read MoreCreative director Pierre François Valette framed the collection around a tension that feels especially relevant right now, the push and pull between design as an idea and clothing as a made object. That sense of resistance ran through the show, where each look seemed to underline the value of workmanship, local production, and an in house understanding of construction. In Valette’s world, tailoring is not merely a silhouette but a language of precision and care.
Read MoreInspired by the figure of the “soundmaker,” the collection explored the work of artists who have shaped, captured, distorted and experimented with sound across different eras. Études Studio traced that influence from John Cage’s minimalist philosophy to the emergence of Intelligent Dance Music in the early 1990s, creating a collection that felt both intellectually layered and visually coherent.
Read MoreAs we stepped back into the real world, it became clear that this wasn’t merely a fashion presentation. It was a family gathering, a landscape of memory stitched into motion.
Read MoreI was completely beyond words and that was a terrible predicament to be in when one is a writer. But this extravaganza of a show was just too much to take in all at once. I have never been so culturally imbued in my entire life.
Read MoreSeries09 is described as “a memory of an inclusive and welcoming Britain,” a phrase that reads almost like a question when set against the backdrop of anti immigration rallies and counter protests that filled London’s streets just days before. Prototypes’ answer is not to retreat into rose tinted nationalism, but to confront the British flag and its loaded visual language head on.
Read MoreThe runway channeled the gritty, fearless spirit of New York streetwear into a more avant-garde London facing language, transforming travel pieces into protagonists rather than supporting characters.
Read More"We got T-Shirts!" I excitedly told JP when we took our seats at the SS26 TAAKK show. Always the perfect ending to my PFW season TAAKK presented an introspective and quietly radical meditation on what it means to create. Designer Takuya Morikawa presented not only garments but a philosophy, a pursuit of creation distilled to its purest essence.
Read MoreFood. We all love it. But Doublet might just love it the most. At Paris Fashion Week, Masayuki Ino transformed a lush natural garden into a runway celebration of life’s simplest, yet most profound pleasure.
Read MorePFW gifted us many unforgettable moments this season, but one show soared above them all, literally. Colm Dillane’s KidSuper SS26 presentation, The Boy Who Jumped the Moon, wasn’t just a fashion show. It was a parable, a bedtime story come to life, stitched in fabric and imagination under the grand ceilings of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Without hesitation I’ll say it, this was my favorite show of all time.
Read MoreThe sun was beating down on us long before the first model stepped onto the Kolor SS26 runway. Most of the attendees were armed with oversized sunglasses and handheld fans. Moments before the show began, much of the audience had sought shelter under the arches of the runway space, "shadow chasing" if you will. JP leaned over to me, bringing me into an observation with a playful smirk, "We're Asian, we don't do tan!"
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