Posts in PMFW
ERL AW26

Rather than classic tuxedos, the show favored velvet trousers, cotton flight suits and a few deliberately theatrical moments. Finishing touches included "Dynasty" scale jewelry and fur trims used to punctuate mood. These details pushed the collection between camp and couture. 

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LuChen AW26

Founded by Lu Chen in 2021, LÙCHEN has steadily migrated from New York to Paris, carving a niche between experimental couture and wearable thinking. The brand’s philosophy, to treat garments as 3D objects that evolve with time and touch, is visible in every seam and improvised surface. AW26 is less a seasonal exercise than an act of reclamation.

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System AW26

SYSTEM’s showing felt like another proof point in a maturing wave of Korean brands staking serious claims on the global menswear map. The creative direction credited in local coverage to the label’s Paris identity and its in house leadership leaned into a hybrid language of tailoring and underculture references, an approach that reads as both commercially savvy and thoughtfully attuned to the contemporary customer.

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VOWELS AW26

The show unfolded across four connected rooms, each evoking a city important to the house; Paris, New York, Los Angeles and Kyoto. The choreography made the collection feel lived in rather than staged. That architecture mirrored the clothes’ premise; garments conceived for movement, adaptability and a steady pace rather than theatrical single moment impact.

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Ouest Paris AW26

Presented in an open, in public shooting format rather than a traditional runway show, the collection felt intentionally unforced. That choice gave the clothes room to speak for themselves, highlighting texture, proportion, and construction while reinforcing OUEST Paris’s commitment to garments designed for real life rather than spectacle.

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Walter Van Bierendonck AW26

Visually, the collection balanced bright color, technical fabrics, and precise tailoring with utilitarian details and modular styling. The result was a wardrobe that felt dynamic and transformable, as though each piece could be reworked, reshaped, or worn in multiple ways.

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Solid Homme AW26

Solid Homme’s AW26 collection arrived at Paris Men’s Fashion Week with a confident, considered vision of contemporary menswear. Under Woo Young Mi’s direction, the house continued to explore the tension between discipline and ease, reworking tailoring through a lens of utility, movement, and modern identity.

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Valette Studio AW26

Creative director Pierre François Valette framed the collection around a tension that feels especially relevant right now, the push and pull between design as an idea and clothing as a made object. That sense of resistance ran through the show, where each look seemed to underline the value of workmanship, local production, and an in house understanding of construction. In Valette’s world, tailoring is not merely a silhouette but a language of precision and care.

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Etudes Studio AW26

Inspired by the figure of the “soundmaker,” the collection explored the work of artists who have shaped, captured, distorted and experimented with sound across different eras. Études Studio traced that influence from John Cage’s minimalist philosophy to the emergence of Intelligent Dance Music in the early 1990s, creating a collection that felt both intellectually layered and visually coherent.

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TAAKK SS26

"We got T-Shirts!" I excitedly told JP when we took our seats at the SS26 TAAKK show. Always the perfect ending to my PFW season TAAKK presented an introspective and quietly radical meditation on what it means to create. Designer Takuya Morikawa presented not only garments but a philosophy, a pursuit of creation distilled to its purest essence.

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Doublet SS26

Food. We all love it. But Doublet might just love it the most. At Paris Fashion Week, Masayuki Ino transformed a lush natural garden into a runway celebration of life’s simplest, yet most profound pleasure.

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KidSuper SS26

PFW gifted us many unforgettable moments this season, but one show soared above them all, literally. Colm Dillane’s KidSuper SS26 presentation, The Boy Who Jumped the Moon, wasn’t just a fashion show. It was a parable, a bedtime story come to life, stitched in fabric and imagination under the grand ceilings of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Without hesitation I’ll say it, this was my favorite show of all time.

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Kolor SS26

The sun was beating down on us long before the first model stepped onto the Kolor SS26 runway. Most of the attendees were armed with oversized sunglasses and handheld fans. Moments before the show began, much of the audience had sought shelter under the arches of the runway space, "shadow chasing" if you will. JP leaned over to me, bringing me into an observation with a playful smirk, "We're Asian, we don't do tan!"

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White Mountaineering SS26

This was one show where the ending should have been the entire show, an electrifying cross current of energy as every model flowed onto the courtyard at once, weaving and crossing paths. For a few mesmerizing minutes, the entire collection lived and breathed together, becoming a moving topography of athleticism, utility, and subtle refinement.

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System SS26

Office Daydream embraced that private yearning, offering a collection that felt like a pause in time. A fleeting breath of freedom, a wardrobe caught between reality and imagination. With more than 300 pieces, SYSTEM imagined a balance between pragmatism and dreamlike elegance, seamlessly blending sharp minimalism with fluid sportswear undertones.

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Camperlab SS26

This season, Camperlab (yes, that Camperlab), under the visionary direction of Achilles Ion Gabriel, unveiled its SS26 collection, marking a compelling new chapter for the brand and a bold step away from its experimental roots in footwear to a full-fledged fashion label.

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Ouest SS26

Lights dim, projectors whirred (in reality we were outside but use your imagination), and suddenly we were no longer in Paris but at a mid-century drive-in theater, complete with popcorn in hand.

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Hed Mayner SS26

It must have been about 100° in that concrete parking garage, the kind of heat that makes you hyper-aware of your body, your breath, the faint flutter of air when someone’s handheld fan passes too close. We waited, patiently and glistening, for the show to begin.

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Kidill SS26

Paris was its usual restless, impatient self as the crowd swelled outside the Kidill SS26 show. The heat had already taken its toll, I noticed one woman who seemed to surrender to it altogether. Stepping out of her Uber in nothing more than stockings and lingerie. And yet, as I watched her stride past us with a kind of defiant insouciance, I couldn’t help but think, isn’t this precisely the sort of unfiltered authenticity that belongs here?

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Etudes SS26

The Études Studio SS26 show at Paris Fashion Week, titled "Surroundings," was a deeply poetic exploration of the artist's relationship with their environment and wardrobe. Held at the Palais de Tokyo, the collection reflected on Land Art, using this concept to examine the marks left on landscapes and clothing alike.

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