What sets Tenot's collection apart is the meticulous attention to detail and the profound thought that goes into each piece. Every garment is a labor of love, a testament to the designer's dedication to her craft.
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It is apparent that Ariane Theunissen now knows exactly who she is as a young designer. My companion noted that this collection felt "very LA". Perhaps it's just a matter of time before the entertainers and celebs get their hands on it.
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The collection drew inspiration from the life and work of British artist Hanna Gluckstein, or “Gluck”. This season was particularly inspired by a painting of Gluck by Romaine Brooks titled, "A Young English Girl" c1923. The portrait exuded both masculinity and simplicity yet it carried an emotional depth with a touch of femininity.
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He takes a deep dive into construction and morphs details of the garment. Initially, you won't notice it much but he does not just deconstruct and rearrange a trench coat, he completely changes the design through intricate details like a belt loop that that snakes down the center front.
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My favorite color is pink. You could not imagine how well this collection captured by interest from the first model. A voluminous dress of bubblegum pink styled with fuzzy black slide on slippers flounced down the runway. I was not only excited to see this look because it was an exuberant show of pink, I was excited because I can see myself in it.
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This season, building on his exploration of Umwelt (German for environment or surround-world), Kunihiko Morinaga uses a colorless PVC base for his creations. Using his trademarked ANVISUAL photochromatic technology, he creates a series of transparent "empty" garments and uses UV light to transform them.
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I somehow ended up at St. Martin’s because of a girl and that's kind of yeah… many years ago I started at menswear and then I finished it and it went pretty well and then someone was actually like, “Hey, you made it, have you heard about the [fashion] festival in France?” And I went 20 years ago.
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I really appreciate how straightforward Phipps is; it's simply good, durable, quality clothing. It's just good clothes. The buzzword that we have heard in recent years in fashion is of course, sustainability. This notion has been used to reinvent many labels which is why Phipps was careful to not label outright that this is a sustainable collection, although it obviously is in the truest sense of the word. Sustainability through durability.
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