Poet-Lab SS27

There are shows that ask to be admired, and then there are shows that ask us to feel something. Poet-Lab’s SS27 presentation, REMEMBER, belongs firmly to the latter.

Set against the urban textures of Bethnal Green, with London’s restless rhythm providing its own soundtrack, creative director Giuseppe laciofano presented a collection that felt less like a conventional runway exercise and more like an inquiry into the things we carry with us. Memory, after all, is not simply a record of where we have been. It is the material from which we continue to become ourselves.

For SS27, Iaciofano translates this idea into clothing that balances strength with vulnerability. Oversized proportions, asymmetric tailoring, and sculptural, genderless silhouettes evoke the stark geometry of brutalist architecture, while cascading silver fringe, sheer black lace, and unexpected flashes of pink introduce moments of softness and disruption. There is a deliberate tension here: structure against fluidity, concealment against exposure, the past against the possibility of reinvention.

What I find particularly compelling is the collection’s relationship with material. Poet-Lab’s use of repurposed deadstock fabrics is not an afterthought or a sustainability footnote; it is integral to the philosophy. Existing materials are given another life, their histories folded into new forms. In a season when fashion continues to negotiate its relationship with excess, this kind of transformation feels quietly radical.

Equally important is the question of who gets to inhabit these clothes. The presentation’s inclusive casting reinforces the idea that identity cannot be reduced to age, gender, or convention. These are pieces that invite individuality rather than prescribe it, allowing the wearer to bring their own history into the conversation.

And perhaps that is where REMEMBER finds its greatest strength. Fashion is often preoccupied with what comes next; the next silhouette, the next obsession, the next newness. Poet-Lab reminds us that looking forward does not require erasing what came before. Sometimes, the most progressive gesture is to remember.

At London Fashion Week, where spectacle can so easily eclipse substance, Poet-Lab offered something more enduring, a collection with a point of view, a conscience, and an understanding that clothing can be both deeply personal and quietly political. SS27 is a thoughtful meditation on memory, material, and selfhood. Poet-Lab proves that the future of fashion need not be detached from the past, it can be built from it.

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