Vivienne Westwood SS27

I thought attending Vetements was my most "famous" Fashion Week moment, but this takes it up a notch. I arrived at the SS27 Vivienne Westwood show and could not easily navigate the entrance. The crowd of people and photographers was overwhelming. Onlookers waited eagerly for a peek at the celebrity guestlist which included Jaden Smith, Paris Jackson and Heidi Klum. Through the shouting paparazzi, I pushed through.

Andreas Kronthaler returned to the house's unmistakable vocabulary of rebellion, romance and irreverence, presenting a collection that felt at once exuberant, intimate and deeply human. Presented at Paris's Palais de la Femme the collection, aptly titled Body & Soul, explored the relationship between sensuality, self expression and the freedom to dress without convention. Drawing inspiration from the vibrant fabric markets of Barbès and historical tailoring, Kronthaler brought together references that felt deliberately unexpected. Traditional silhouettes were disrupted by playful proportions, vivid prints and an almost theatrical approach to dressing.

Bazin cottons appeared in generous, colourful forms, while delicate corsetry, voluminous skirts and lingerie inspired layers played with the tension between exposure and restraint. There was a wonderful sense of imperfection throughout; garments appeared twisted, pieced together and intentionally unfinished, reminding us that fashion need not always be polished to be powerful. A reimagining of a 17th century Cheat Jacket, with its contrasting front and back construction, further celebrated the beauty of individuality and unconventional craftsmanship.

The collection also embraced a more liberated vision of masculinity, with relaxed nightshirts and sensual silhouettes challenging traditional ideas of menswear. It was quintessentially Westwood; provocative without losing its sense of humor, and romantic without becoming overly precious.

Yet beneath the spectacle was a more thoughtful message. The collection renewed the house's connection with Body & Soul, a suicide prevention charity previously supported by Dame Vivienne Westwood, reinforcing the belief that fashion can be a vehicle for something beyond aesthetics.

What makes this collection particularly compelling is its refusal to separate creativity from conviction. Kronthaler continues to honour the late Vivienne Westwood's rebellious spirit, not by simply revisiting her archives, but by allowing her ideas to evolve. For SS27, the message is refreshingly clear, individuality is something to be celebrated, convention is there to be questioned, and getting dressed should always leave room for a little rebellion.

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