Keburia AW26

I love it when I run into friends at shows and they give me the most memorable one liners. And at this show, it was Alvaro who left me with "This is the life we CHOSE...!!!" We were speaking about how go-go-go the week has already been and we took a moment to renew our vows to this fashion life by adopting this new mantra. As we took a minute and looked around we commented on how it looks like we were attending a fabulous fashion funeral and we didn't even know why exactly yet.

First impressions matter, and George Keburia’s AW26 felt designed to linger. Staged inside a venue that the designer transformed into his own slightly sinister theatre, the collection read like a cinematic mash‑up of military pageantry, baroque ornament and teenage trench coat attitude, all delivered with Keburia’s well timed wink. The result? A show that leaned into humor and spectacle while remaining fiercely crafted and wearable. 

From the moment guests stepped in, Keburia set the mood; dimmed, theatrical, and intentionally a touch unruly. The production design, which included surprising props and a funeral bouquet centrepiece, amplified the collection’s blend of grief tinged romance and rock’n’roll sleaze. It was less a conventional catwalk and more an invitation to enter the designer’s heightened world. 

A recurring spider motif crawled across jewelry and trims, acting as a clever counterpoint to the collection’s fragility versus power narrative. And because Keburia knows how to make the pressroom laugh, a slogan tee, a brandish of playful provocation, returned this season as a conversational moment in an otherwise serious tableau. Small theatrical details like these reminded us that Keburia’s work is simultaneously political, personal and performative. 

Keburia AW26 didn’t just show clothes it staged a mood, equal parts rebellion and romance. It’s the kind of collection that will filter into street style, editor wardrobes and celebrity dressing in small but telling ways. And because Keburia knows how to turn provocation into poetry, I suspect we’ll be quoting his runway lines (and remixing his motifs) well into the season.