Torishe Ju SS27

At Paris Fashion Week, Torishéju Dumi reminded us that fashion is at its most compelling when it dares to unsettle. For SS27, the British designer transformed the runway into a theatrical exploration of spectacle, identity, and the fine line between beauty and disarray.

Titled Panem et Circenses, the collection takes its name from the ancient Roman idea of “bread and circuses", the distractions that keep society entertained while deeper questions go unasked. It is a concept that feels especially relevant today, when image making and performance have become so deeply woven into our everyday lives.

The clothes reflected this tension beautifully. Traditional wedding dresses were disrupted by streaks of paint and distressed finishes, while sharply tailored silhouettes met unexpected proportions, exposed construction, and deliberately unraveled fabrics. Nothing felt entirely polished, and that was precisely the point. There was a sense of something beneath the surface pushing to break free.

Equally compelling was the collection’s approach to materiality. In collaboration with Nike, Dumi reworked surplus fabrics, dismantling existing garments and rebuilding them into new textiles. The process offered a thoughtful reminder that creativity and resourcefulness can challenge fashion’s culture of constant consumption.

What makes Torishéju so exciting is her ability to balance conceptual depth with a strong, unmistakable point of view. This was fashion that invited us to look beyond the spectacle and question what we are really watching and what might be hidden in plain sight. For SS27, Torishéju did more than put on a show. She held up a mirror to the world around us, leaving us to decide whether we were the audience or part of the performance.

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