KSENIASCHNAIDER SS27

There is something fascinating about clothing that looks as though it belongs to a particular world, yet refuses to tell you exactly which one. At London Fashion Week, KSENIASCHNAIDER’s SS27 collection, UTC+1, explored this tension with an inventive mix of sporting references, experimental graphics and everyday functionality.

This season marks a new creative chapter for the Ukrainian label, with co-founder Anton Schnaider taking the lead as Creative Director. Drawing on his background in graphic design, Schnaider reworks the familiar visual language of football jerseys, racing uniforms and club merchandise into something far more personal and deliberately ambiguous.

Logos, numbers, crests and invented surnames appear throughout the collection, borrowing the codes of collective identity without pledging allegiance to any particular team or place. It is a clever proposition; what if fashion allowed us to play with belonging rather than define ourselves by it?

The collection’s most compelling idea, however, extends beyond graphics. Introducing what the brand calls walkwear, KSENIASCHNAIDER imagines clothing for a life in constant motion. Think practical, pocket-heavy silhouettes, performance inspired details and garments designed for navigating the city. It is workwear and sportswear reinterpreted for the everyday wanderer, someone whose destination is perhaps less important than the journey.

There is also a softer side to the story. The label’s ongoing collaboration with Lee Cooper brings romantic florals, checks and colourful patchwork into utilitarian denim inspired dressing. Cargo pockets meet delicate prints, creating a contrast that feels playful rather than precious. It is precisely this unexpected pairing of practicality and decoration that gives the collection its character.

Importantly, the collection was produced in Kyiv, at the brand’s own production facility. This commitment to making sits alongside KSENIASCHNAIDER’s longstanding interest in experimental denim, upcycling and more considered approaches to construction.

What I find most interesting about UTC+1 is its refusal to settle on a single identity. Its symbols look familiar but remain elusive; its clothes are functional without being entirely conventional. In a fashion landscape often preoccupied with labels and affiliations, KSENIASCHNAIDER proposes something refreshingly open ended.

Perhaps the most modern wardrobe is one that lets us move freely between worlds, without asking us to choose just one.

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